Bosch & Siemens
Dishwasher Error Codes
Click any error code below to jump straight to the cause, what went wrong, and exactly how to fix it — written by real repair technicians.
So your Bosch or Siemens dishwasher threw up an error code and now you don't know what to do. Totally normal — these machines run a self-check every single cycle and the moment something feels off, they throw up a code on the display. The good news? Most of them are things you can actually sort yourself without calling anyone out. We've put together every error code we know about, what they mean in plain English, and what you should try first before reaching for the phone.
Bosch Dishwasher Error Codes
Covers all Bosch Series 2, 4, 6, 8 – 300, 500, 800 Series and all SHPM / SHEM / SHE models
👇 Click any code to jump to its fix:
⚡ How to Reset a Bosch Dishwasher (First Step for Most Errors)
- Do the full power reset (flip the breaker off for 30 seconds).
- If the code comes straight back, this one is beyond a DIY fix — the control board needs professional diagnosis.
- Power reset first as always.
- If the code returns, check the thermistor/temperature sensor wiring for damage or loose connections.
- Replacing the thermistor is relatively cheap and within reach for a confident DIY person.
- If that doesn't clear it, the control board itself needs replacing by a tech.
- Reset the power.
- Check the water inlet valve — if it's partially clogged or sticking, replacing it is a manageable repair.
- If the valve looks fine, a technician needs to assess the control board.
- Power reset and retry.
- If it comes back, contact Bosch or a certified appliance tech. This one needs specialist equipment to diagnose properly.
- Power reset as a first step.
- If the error persists, call a Bosch-authorised engineer — the module needs programming after replacement and this can't be done without dealer-level tools.
- Open and firmly close the door. Give it a proper push — sometimes the latch just needs seating properly.
- Check the door latch for any physical damage or debris blocking it.
- Inspect the door gasket — if it's swollen or warped, it might be preventing a proper seal.
- If the latch mechanism looks damaged, a replacement latch assembly is usually inexpensive.
- Power reset and run another cycle.
- Check if there's anything obstructing the fan at the rear of the unit.
- If the fan motor itself is burned out, it needs replacing — a moderate repair most comfortable DIYers can handle.
- Check the water supply tap under the sink is fully open.
- Inspect the inlet hose for kinks or blockages.
- Check the inlet filter (usually at the back of the machine where the hose connects) for limescale or debris — clean it out.
- Low household water pressure can also trigger this — try running the kitchen tap to check flow.
- Power reset first.
- Check wiring connections to the element if you're comfortable doing so.
- Test the element with a multimeter for continuity — if it reads open circuit, the element is dead and needs replacing.
- Run a descaling cycle — put a dishwasher descaler or white vinegar in the bottom of the empty machine and run a hot cycle.
- Make sure you're regularly using dishwasher salt (for hard water areas this is especially important).
- If descaling doesn't help and the code keeps coming back, the element may be permanently damaged and need replacing.
- Power reset and re-run.
- Locate the NTC thermistor (usually near the sump), check the wiring for damage or corrosion.
- Test the sensor with a multimeter — if resistance readings are wildly off, replace the thermistor. It's a cheap part.
- Check the inlet hose and supply tap — make sure water can flow freely.
- Check the inlet filter for debris and clean it out.
- If the sensor itself is faulty, it'll need replacing — this is a job for someone with a bit of appliance repair experience.
- Turn off both the machine and the water tap immediately.
- Pull the machine out from under the counter carefully.
- Tilt the machine gently backwards at about 45° — this drains the water from the base tray. Have towels ready because it will make a mess.
- Once drained, the AquaStop float should reset and the error should clear.
- Before pushing the machine back, find the source of the leak and fix it — otherwise E15 will be back within a few cycles.
- Check the water inlet valve — if it's not closing fully, water keeps trickling in even when it shouldn't. A sticking valve needs replacing.
- Check the flow meter / water sensor, as a faulty reading here can trigger a false E17.
- Reset the machine and retry — if the code keeps coming back, the inlet valve is the most likely culprit.
- Power reset as a starting point.
- If the code comes back with the machine making unusual sounds (buzzing, grinding), the pump motor is likely damaged and needs professional replacement.
- Remove the spray arms and the filter assembly from the bottom of the dishwasher.
- Look down into the pump area — a bit of glass, a toothpick, a cherry stone — these are the usual culprits.
- Remove whatever's blocking it and check the impeller spins freely by hand.
- Reassemble and run a test cycle.
- Clean the drain filter — a really clogged filter puts excessive strain on the drain pump and can trigger E23.
- Check the drain hose for blockages or kinks.
- If the pump itself is faulty (making no sound at all during draining, or making a grinding noise), it needs replacing.
- Take out the filter at the bottom of the dishwasher (twist and lift). Give it a proper scrub under the tap with an old toothbrush.
- While you're in there, check the drain pump housing for any bits of debris — bone fragments, glass, etc.
- Go around the back and check the drain hose — if it's bent, kinked, or squashed against the wall, straighten it out.
- Make sure the drain hose isn't submerged in standing water in the kitchen drain — it needs an air gap.
- Reassemble everything and run a rinse cycle to test.
- Remove the drain filter and look into the pump area with a torch.
- Common blockers: small pieces of broken glass, toothpicks, olive pits, labels off jars — fish them out with tweezers or pliers.
- Check that the pump impeller can spin freely — if it's seized, the pump motor may be burned out and need replacing.
- Power reset as a first step.
- If it persists, the water level pressure switch needs to be tested — if it's sticking open or closed, it needs replacing.
- Check if other appliances on the same circuit are working properly.
- Make sure the dishwasher is plugged directly into a wall socket — not through an extension lead.
- If you suspect a voltage problem, get an electrician to check the supply.
- Try unplugging and restarting the machine once the voltage is stable.
- Power reset and test again.
- Make sure the filter is clean — a very dirty filter can sometimes cause dirty water to cloud the sensor lens.
- If the sensor itself is faulty, it needs replacing — this is a moderate repair.
Siemens Dishwasher Error Codes
Covers all Siemens iQ300, iQ500, iQ700 and all SN / SX series models
👇 Click any code to jump to its fix:
⚡ How to Reset a Siemens Dishwasher
- Make sure the tap under the sink is fully open and water pressure is decent.
- Check the inlet hose at the back of the machine — make sure it's not kinked or squashed.
- Look at the corner valve and inlet hose filter for any blockages — clean if needed.
- If the code keeps coming back after all that, the flow meter itself likely needs replacing.
- Turn off the water tap immediately.
- Pull the machine out and tilt it backwards at roughly 90 degrees (have towels ready) — this drains the base tray and should reset the float.
- Once the E15 clears, find and fix the source of the leak before running another cycle.
- Check you're using the right amount of dishwasher detergent — too much causes foam buildup that can trigger this.
- Turn off the water supply and reset the machine.
- If it keeps happening, the AquaStop or inlet valve needs professional assessment.
- Check your household water pressure — if it's genuinely too high (common in some areas), a pressure reducer on the supply line can help.
- Check for a faulty solenoid valve, damaged AquaStop hose, or leaking seals — any of these can cause water to get where it shouldn't.
- Tilt the machine to drain the base tray if water has pooled there.
- If the flow sensor is reading incorrectly, it'll need replacing.
- Open the supply tap fully if it was partially closed.
- Check for kinks or blockages in the inlet hose.
- Inspect the inlet filter at the back of the machine — limescale and debris love building up here.
- If water pressure in your home is generally low, this may keep happening — a plumber can assess whether a booster is needed.
- Check that the dispenser door opens freely — sometimes dried detergent gums it up. Clean it out thoroughly.
- Reset the machine and try again.
- If the dispenser mechanism itself is broken, it may need replacing — or it could be an electronics issue requiring a tech.
- Switch the machine completely off and back on — sometimes a temporary glitch causes this.
- If the code persists, the thermostat or NTC sensor likely needs replacing — a fairly straightforward part swap for most repair folks.
- Remove the filter and check the pump area for any blocking debris.
- Make sure the pump impeller can spin freely by hand.
- If the pump motor is burned out (no sound or grinding sound during the wash cycle), it needs replacing.
- Open the dishwasher and remove the bottom rack.
- Twist and lift the filter assembly out of the floor of the dishwasher.
- Take it to the sink and scrub it under warm running water with an old toothbrush. Get all the grease and bits off.
- Rinse it well and push it firmly back into place — make sure it clicks or seats properly.
- Run a short cycle to test.
- Clean the drain filter first — this is the most common reason the drain pump struggles.
- Check the drain hose for kinks or blockages.
- Look into the pump housing for debris that might be jamming the impeller.
- If the pump itself has failed, it'll need replacing — you can often hear the difference: a healthy pump hums; a dead pump is silent during the drain cycle.
- Clean the drain filter — this solves it most of the time.
- Check the drain hose at the back — remove any kinks or bends that might be blocking flow.
- Make sure the drain hose isn't pushed too far down into the waste pipe — it needs an air break to drain freely.
- Check the drain pump impeller for debris.
- Remove the filter and look into the pump opening with a torch.
- Fish out any debris — broken glass, toothpicks, food waste are the usual suspects.
- Make sure the pump impeller rotates freely once cleared.
- If the impeller is damaged or seized, the pump needs replacing.
- Power reset first.
- If the code returns, a technician with the right diagnostic tools will need to test the pressure sensor and replace it if faulty.
- Check other appliances on the same circuit.
- Plug the dishwasher directly into a wall socket — not through an extension.
- If the problem is persistent, a voltage stabiliser can protect the machine from fluctuating supply.
- Contact an electrician if you suspect a wiring issue in the property.
- Check the inlet hose and water supply first — a very restricted water flow can trip this sensor incorrectly.
- If supply and hose are fine, the flow sensor itself likely needs replacing.

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