2026 Complete Guide
Whirlpool
Dishwasher Error Codes
Full breakdown of every fault code — what broke, why it broke, and exactly how to sort it out
Before you panic — most dishwasher errors are not as bad as they look. I've been fixing white goods for years and honestly, probably 60% of fault codes are caused by blocked filters, kinked hoses or sensors that just need a clean. This guide covers all the common (and not-so-common) error codes for both Whirlpool and Siemens dishwashers. Click any code in the quick-reference grid below to jump straight to the details.
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Whirlpool
Dishwasher Error Codes — All Models
Covers all Whirlpool freestanding, integrated and slimline dishwasher models. Click any code below to jump to the full explanation and fix steps.
F1Temp Sensor
F2Temp Fault
F3NTC Error
F4No Drain
F5Rotor Fault
F6No Water
F7Flowmeter
F8Water Level
F9Triac Fault
F10Overflow
F11Pump Fault
F12Control Board
F13Diverter
F14Condenser
F15Short Circ
F1
Medium
NTC Temperature Sensor — Open Circuit
Machine cant read water temperature properly
- NTC sensor wire disconnected or corroded
- Heavy limescale coating on sensor tip
- Sensor has gone open circuit (broken internally)
- Control board reading fault
- Locate sensor at bottom of tub (usually near heater)
- Check wiring harness — unplug and reconnect
- Descale with white vinegar soak for 30 mins
- Test resistance with multimeter (should be ~10kΩ at 25°C)
- Replace sensor if reading is open circuit
✓ DIY FRIENDLY — Sensor replacement is usually straightforward and parts cost £15–30.
F2
Medium
Water Temperature Too High
Overheat detected during wash cycle
- Triac (heater relay) stuck in ON position
- NTC sensor giving false high reading
- Control board sending continuous heat signal
- Turn machine off and let it cool for 30 mins
- Check if same error returns after cooling
- Test triac on main board — if stuck closed, board needs replacing
- Swap NTC sensor first as cheaper fix
⚠ PRO JOB — If triac is confirmed faulty, board replacement or component-level repair needed.
F3
Medium
NTC Temperature Sensor — Short Circuit
Sensor is shorted rather than open circuit
- Sensor wires pinched and touching each other
- Water ingress on sensor connector
- Sensor internally short circuited
- Inspect wiring harness for chafed insulation
- Dry out connector with compressed air
- Test resistance — very low reading (close to 0Ω) confirms short
- Replace NTC sensor
✓ DIY FRIENDLY — Same fix as F1 but check wiring more carefully first.
F4
High
Drain Pump Fault — Water Not Draining
Machine cant empty after wash or rinse
- Blocked or clogged drain filter
- Drain hose kinked or blocked by debris
- Drain pump impeller jammed by glass/food
- Drain pump motor burnt out
- Blocked sink standpipe (shared drain)
- Step 1: Clean the filter at bottom of machine — this fixes it 50% of the time
- Step 2: Check drain hose behind machine for kinks
- Step 3: Remove pump cover, clear any blockage from impeller
- Step 4: Listen — if pump hums but doesn't drain, impeller is jammed or worn
- Step 5: Test pump with multimeter, replace if no continuity
✓ DIY FRIENDLY — Filter cleaning and hose check are easy. Pump replacement is moderate difficulty.
F5
High
Rotor / Wash Motor Speed Fault
Main wash pump running at wrong speed or not at all
- Foreign object stuck in wash pump
- Wash motor capacitor failed
- Motor winding blown
- Hall effect sensor on motor faulty
- Check pump cavity for broken glass or debris
- Try spinning impeller by hand — should move freely
- Test motor windings for continuity
- Check capacitor if motor type uses one
- Replace wash pump motor if failed
⚠ PRO ADVISED — Wash motor replacement can be tricky depending on model access.
F6
Medium
Water Inlet Fault — Not Filling
Machine not getting water in at start of cycle
- Water supply tap not fully open
- Inlet hose kinked or damaged
- Mesh filter on inlet valve clogged with sediment
- Inlet solenoid valve not opening
- Low water pressure from mains
- Open water tap fully and check hose for kinks
- Unscrew inlet hose from valve — rinse the mesh filter screen
- Test inlet valve solenoid with multimeter
- Check water pressure — needs minimum 0.5 bar
- Replace inlet valve if solenoid reads open circuit
✓ DIY FRIENDLY — Mesh filter cleaning is the first thing to try. Inlet valves are easy to swap too.
F7
Medium
Flowmeter / Water Measurement Fault
Machine can't accurately measure water flowing in
- Flowmeter turbine jammed with scale or debris
- Flowmeter hall sensor failed
- Wiring to flowmeter damaged
- Locate flowmeter on inlet pipe after solenoid valve
- Remove and check turbine spins freely
- Descale with vinegar if calcified
- Test signal output with multimeter while spinning
- Replace unit if sensor dead
✓ DIY FRIENDLY — Flowmeter units usually cost £10–25 and are clip-fitted on most models.
F8
Medium
Water Level Sensor / Pressure Switch Fault
Machine can't detect correct water level in tub
- Pressure chamber or air trap tube blocked with detergent sludge
- Pressure switch itself faulty
- Float switch stuck (on models using float type)
- Locate pressure switch — usually top of machine or side panel
- Disconnect air tube, blow through it to clear blockage
- Clean the pressure chamber at end of tube
- Test switch contacts — replace if switching at wrong pressure
✓ DIY FRIENDLY — Clearing the air tube often resolves this without any part replacement.
F9
High
Triac / Heating Element Circuit Fault
Problem with the heater control on main board
- Triac component on PCB shorted or open
- Heating element failed (open circuit)
- Wiring to element damaged or corroded
- Test heating element continuity — should read 20–30Ω typically
- If element OK, suspect triac on main board
- Component-level repair possible by electronics tech
- Otherwise replace main PCB
⚠ PRO JOB — Board-level faults need proper diagnosis before throwing money at new parts.
F10
High
Overflow / Anti-Flood Protection Activated
Water detected in base tray under the machine
- Door seal leaking and water pooling in base
- Sump or hose connection weeping internally
- Too much detergent causing excessive suds
- Float switch in base stuck in triggered position
- Pull machine out and tilt forward 45° to drain base tray
- Let dry for 24 hours with base panel off
- Identify and fix the source of the leak
- Check door seal — replace if cracked or compressed
- Only use proper dishwasher detergent, not washing up liquid
✓ DIY FRIENDLY — Draining the base is easy. Finding the actual leak source takes patience.
F11
High
Drain Pump Circuit Failure
Electrical fault with drain pump wiring or motor
- Drain pump winding open circuit
- Connector to pump corroded or pulled off
- Board output driver for pump failed
- Check pump connector — remove and refit firmly
- Test pump winding resistance
- Confirm 12V or 24V reaching pump during drain phase
- Replace pump if winding is open circuit
✓ DIY FRIENDLY — Drain pumps are one of the most commonly replaced parts and usually cheap.
F12
High
Main Control Board Communication Error
PCB internal fault or inter-board comms failure
- Power surge damaged main PCB
- Moisture on board causing short
- Harness connector between boards loose
- Hard reset first — disconnect power for 10 minutes
- Check all board-to-board connectors are seated properly
- Inspect board for visible burn marks
- Replace PCB if fault persists after reset
⚠ PRO ADVISED — PCBs for Whirlpool dishwashers run £50–150. Worth diagnosing properly first.
F13
Low
Diverter Valve Fault
Water not switching between upper and lower spray arms properly
- Diverter valve actuator motor jammed
- Scale buildup on valve seat
- Foreign object blocking valve rotation
- Remove lower basket and find diverter at bottom of tub
- Check valve rotates freely by hand
- Descale with citric acid solution
- Replace diverter assembly if motor is dead
✓ DIY FRIENDLY — Machine usually still washes but one zone won't get proper spray coverage.
F14
Medium
Drying / Condenser Fan Fault
Condensation drying system not functioning
- Drying fan motor seized or burnt
- Fan blade obstructed by debris
- Wiring to fan damaged
- Access fan via rear or side panel depending on model
- Check fan blade spins freely
- Test motor — replace if not running
- Machine will still wash but dishes won't dry properly
✓ DIY FRIENDLY — Fan motors are usually accessible and inexpensive.
F15
High
Short Circuit — Main Heating Element
Dangerous fault — heater shorted to earth
- Heating element sheath corroded through
- Element insulation breakdown with age
- Scale buildup causing element overheating and failure
- Do not use machine until this is fixed — potential shock risk
- Isolate from mains before any work
- Test element with multimeter — check continuity to earth
- Replace heating element — fits from underneath on most models
⚠ SAFETY RISK — Stop using machine immediately. This is a genuine electrical hazard if element is shorted to earth.
🔄 How To Reset a Whirlpool Dishwasher
1
Press and hold the Start/Reset button for 3–5 seconds until the indicator light starts flashing
2
Open the door and wait 2 full minutes for the machine to clear its cycle memory
3
Close door and select a new wash programme — press Start
4
If the error comes back immediately, the underlying fault still exists and needs fixing physically
Frequently Asked Questions
What does F1 error mean on a Whirlpool dishwasher? ▼
F1 means the NTC temperature sensor is not working properly — it's either disconnected, scaled up, or has failed. The machine can't read water temperature so it stops the cycle as a safety measure. Check the sensor connections first, descale with vinegar, then test resistance. If it reads open circuit it needs replacing — usually a £15–30 fix.
What does F4 mean on a Whirlpool dishwasher? ▼
F4 is a drain fault — machine is not emptying water after the wash or rinse. Most common cause is a blocked drain filter, but a kinked hose or jammed drain pump impeller can also trigger it. Clean the filter first (that fixes it about half the time), then check the hose at the back for kinks. If the pump is humming but water isn't shifting, the impeller is likely jammed with debris.
What does F6 error mean on Whirlpool dishwasher? ▼
F6 means water is not entering the machine. First check that the water tap supplying the dishwasher is fully open and the hose isn't kinked. Then unscrew the inlet hose from the back of the machine and rinse out the small mesh filter screen inside — this gets blocked with sediment over time and stops water getting through. If that's clear, the inlet solenoid valve itself may need replacing.
How do I reset a Whirlpool dishwasher after an error code? ▼
Hold down the Start/Reset button for 3–5 seconds until the lights flash, then open the door and wait 2 minutes. Close and start a new cycle. If the error comes straight back, the underlying physical fault hasn't been fixed yet and resetting won't help — you need to diagnose and repair the actual cause.
What does F10 mean on a Whirlpool dishwasher? ▼
F10 means the anti-flood protection has been triggered — water has somehow got into the base tray underneath the machine. Pull the machine out and tilt it forward at 45 degrees for about 30 seconds to drain the base tray. Mop out any remaining water and let it dry. Then you need to find where the water came from — door seal, sump seal, and internal hose connections are the usual suspects.
Is it worth repairing a Whirlpool dishwasher showing error codes? ▼
In most cases yes, especially if the machine is under 10 years old. The majority of Whirlpool dishwasher error codes are caused by blocked filters, clogged pumps, faulty sensors or failing valves — all of which are relatively cheap to fix. A new dishwasher costs £300–800. A pump replacement might be £60–100. Even a new PCB is usually cheaper than a new machine if everything else is sound. Get a proper diagnosis before writing it off.
Why does my Whirlpool dishwasher keep showing F4? ▼
If F4 keeps coming back it usually means the filter isn't being cleaned often enough, or there's a recurring blockage in the drain hose. Clean the filter thoroughly — remove all three parts and scrub under running water. Check the drain hose isn't sitting too low at the back. If the pump is humming but not draining, the impeller might be partly jammed by accumulated debris and needs clearing out.
How often should I clean my dishwasher filter to prevent error codes? ▼
Every 2–4 weeks for a regularly used machine. It takes about 5 minutes and prevents a huge number of error codes from happening in the first place — particularly drain errors like F4. If you're in a hard water area, run a monthly descale cycle too. Regular maintenance is the best way to avoid unexpected fault codes.
Still Stuck? We Can Help
If you've tried the fixes above and the error won't clear, it might be time for a professional diagnosis. Our engineers have seen it all — we'll get your machine sorted fast.
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