How to Fix Whirlpool Washing Machine Error Code List
Whirlpool is one of the most widely used washing machine brands in the world — from North America to Europe to the Middle East. I have been repairing Whirlpool machines for over 20 years, including extensive hands-on work in the UK, UAE, and the US market. This guide covers every Whirlpool washing machine error code I have encountered across front load and top load HE models, with the actual fix steps — sourced directly from Whirlpool's official product help documentation and my own field experience.
🔍 What Your Whirlpool Error Code Is Really Telling You
Whirlpool builds one of the most sophisticated self-diagnostic systems in the industry. When a code appears on the display, the machine has identified a specific operational issue and stopped itself to prevent further damage. Understanding the difference between codes you can fix yourself and codes that require a technician is the key to saving time and money.
Whirlpool error codes split into two broad categories. Operational codes — like LOC, Sud, dET, Int, rL — are not hardware faults. They are status notifications or user-correctable conditions. The machine is simply alerting you to something. F-series codes — F01 through F33 and the F#E# combinations — indicate actual component or circuit failures. These range from fixable-at-home (F05 drain issues) to requiring a qualified engineer (F01 PCB fault, F09 software fault).
⚠️ Safety First: Before checking any filter, hose, or internal component, unplug the machine from the wall socket completely. This is not optional — water and mains electricity together are dangerous. The power button alone does not make the machine safe to work on.
💡 Universal First Step for Any Code: Unplug from the wall socket, wait a minimum of 2 minutes, plug back in, wait 30 seconds, then press Power. According to Whirlpool's official documentation, this hard reset resolves many temporary fault conditions. If the code returns after the reset and after addressing the cause, further diagnosis is needed.
📋 Whirlpool Error Code Index — Front Load & Top Load HE
LC
LOC or LC is not a fault. It tells you the Control Lock (also called Child Lock) feature is active. When this mode is on, the control panel is completely locked — no buttons respond except Power. The machine is functioning correctly; it is simply preventing accidental programme changes. I get calls about this every week — usually from customers who accidentally held a button combination during cleaning.
✅ How to Turn Off LOC / LC
- Locate the Control Lock button on your panel — often combined with another button
- Press and hold for 3 seconds until LOC/LC disappears
- On some models: hold the "End of Cycle Signal" button for 3 seconds
- Check your model's manual for the exact button combination
dET appears on Whirlpool models equipped with the Load & Go detergent dispenser system. The machine detected that the detergent cartridge is not properly installed in its compartment. This is not a mechanical fault — refill or reseat the cartridge and the code clears.
✅ Fix
- Open the detergent dispenser drawer or cartridge door
- Remove the cartridge and reinsert it firmly until it clicks
- If the cartridge is empty, refill or replace it
- Press Start — dET should clear immediately
Int is a status display — not a fault code. It means the current cycle was interrupted, paused, or cancelled by the user. The machine is waiting for instruction. Simply press Start/Pause to resume the cycle from where it stopped, or select a new programme to start fresh.
F34
rL or F34 appears when you select the Clean Washer cycle but the machine detects items still inside the drum. The Clean Washer cycle must be run on an empty drum — clothing in the machine during a cleaning cycle can be damaged by the high temperature and concentrated cleaning action used. Remove all items and restart the Clean Washer programme.
✅ Fix
- Open the door and remove all clothing from the drum
- Check the drum is completely empty
- Close door and restart the Clean Washer cycle
- Run this cycle monthly with an affresh washer cleaner tablet for best results
Sd
Sud or Sd is one of the most commonly misunderstood Whirlpool codes. It is not a breakdown — it is the machine telling you there is too much foam inside. Excess suds from over-dosing detergent, using the wrong type of detergent, or residual suds from a previous wash will trigger this code. Whirlpool HE machines are designed for low-sudsing HE detergent. Non-HE detergent produces vastly more foam than the machine can handle.
🔍 Why Sud Appears
- Too much detergent used for the load size
- Non-HE detergent in an HE machine
- Residual detergent buildup inside drum from previous washes
- Fabric softener overuse creating foam during spin
- Detergent dispenser not rinsing out properly
✅ What the Machine Does / What You Do
- Machine automatically pauses and adds rinse cycles to clear foam
- Wait — do not interrupt this process
- Future washes: use only HE marked detergent
- Reduce detergent quantity by 25–50%
- Run a Clean Washer cycle to clear detergent residue
F01 covers two related but distinct faults. The first is an electronic circuit board failure — the main PCB is not functioning correctly and some or all wash functions cannot be selected. The second is a motor circuit fault causing intermittent or complete loss of drum rotation during the wash. The official Whirlpool advice is clear: try the reset first, and if it fails, call an engineer. In 20 years I have never seen F01 resolve permanently without either a PCB repair or replacement.
🔍 Possible Causes
- Main PCB component failure (capacitor, relay, or triac)
- Power surge damage to circuit board
- Motor winding fault or carbon brush wear
- Motor wiring harness damaged or disconnected
- Moisture damage to PCB (from leak or condensation)
✅ Steps to Take
- Unplug machine for minimum 2 minutes
- Plug back in, wait 30 seconds, press Power
- If machine operates — monitor for recurrence
- If F01 returns — stop using and call engineer
- Use surge protector going forward
⚙ Technician Testing
- PCB visual inspection — burnt components, swollen capacitors, relay damage
- Motor carbon brush length check — worn brushes cause intermittent F01
- Motor winding resistance test — all phases should be balanced
- Supply voltage rails on PCB — confirm correct voltages present
F03 means the temperature sensing circuit has a fault. The NTC thermistor — a small sensor near the heating element — is responsible for monitoring water temperature throughout the wash cycle. When it fails, the machine either cannot heat water correctly or cannot confirm the temperature is safe, so it stops the programme. F03 requires a service engineer visit to test and replace the thermistor or heating assembly.
🔍 Possible Causes
- NTC thermistor failed — open circuit or short circuit
- Thermistor wiring connector corroded or loose
- Limescale buildup on thermistor reducing accuracy
- PCB temperature input circuit fault
✅ Steps
- Hard reset — unplug 2 min, reconnect
- If F03 clears — run descaling cycle (hard water areas)
- If F03 returns — engineer required
- Do not run hot wash programmes until fixed
⚙ Technician Testing
- NTC resistance at 25°C — typical 10kΩ (check model spec sheet)
- Resistance decreases as temperature rises — verify this relationship
- Inspect connector for corrosion or pushed-back pins
- PCB thermistor input — check voltage changes during heating phase
F05 is the most actionable of all Whirlpool F-codes — and the most frequently resolved without a technician. According to Whirlpool's official service guidance, F05 indicates either a blockage in the waste pipe or a pump failure. The door will not open because water remains inside the drum (a safety interlock). In my experience, approximately 60% of F05 calls are resolved by cleaning the pump filter alone. Start there before assuming the pump has failed.
🔍 Possible Causes
- Pump filter (coin trap) blocked with debris
- Drain hose kinked, crushed, or incorrectly positioned
- Blockage in household waste pipe or under-sink plumbing
- Drain pump motor failed
- Pump impeller jammed with small objects
✅ Home Fix Steps
- Unplug machine — safety first
- Access pump filter (front bottom panel)
- Drain residual water via emergency hose
- Clean pump filter thoroughly
- Check drain hose for kinks
- Test household drain is clear
🔧 Step-by-Step F05 Fix
⚙ Technician Testing
- Pump winding resistance — Whirlpool pumps typically 200–250Ω
- Direct 220V/120V to pump — confirm rotation and flow
- PCB drain relay output signal during drain cycle
- Pressure switch hose — confirm clear and correctly connected
F06 is a door lock fault. Whirlpool official documentation describes two symptoms: the door cannot be opened after a cycle, or the machine will not start a programme even when the door appears to be closed. In both cases, the door interlock mechanism — the electromechanical lock that confirms door status to the control board — is involved. Start with an obstruction check and a hard reset before calling for service.
🔍 Possible Causes
- Object caught in door seal preventing full closure
- Door lock solenoid worn or failed
- Door lock wiring connector loose or damaged
- Bimetallic lock element stuck (door won't open)
- PCB door lock relay fault
- Door hinge misalignment
✅ Home Checks
- Check door seal for trapped clothing or objects
- Close door firmly — full pressure until click
- Hard reset — unplug 2 min, plug in, wait 30s, press Power
- For stuck door: unplug, wait 20 min for thermal lock to cool
- Persist → door interlock replacement needed
F07 indicates either the main PCB has a fault, or specifically the heating circuit on the PCB is failing — causing the programme to pause and the pump to run continuously while the heater is not working. This is an engineer-required fault. The combination of heating and PCB issues means multiple component checks are needed.
✅ Steps
- Hard reset — unplug 2 minutes, plug back in
- If clears — run a cold wash to test operation without heating
- If F07 returns — do not run the machine, call Whirlpool service
⚙ Technician Testing
- Heating element resistance — typical 20–30Ω for Whirlpool front loaders
- PCB heater triac test — check for stuck-ON or open condition
- NTC thermistor test — confirm accurate temperature readings
- PCB visual inspection for component damage
F08 specifically points to the heating element itself — as opposed to F07 which involves the PCB heating circuit. The element has either burnt out (open circuit), become severely scaled up, or its wiring has come loose. According to Whirlpool, if the programme pauses partway through a wash cycle without completing, F08 is the likely diagnostic. A descaling cycle can sometimes resolve F08 caused by extreme scale buildup — but a failed element needs replacing.
🔍 Causes
- Heating element burnt out (open circuit)
- Severe limescale coating on element (hard water areas)
- Element wiring connector loose or corroded
- Element earthing fault
✅ Steps
- Hard reset first
- If in hard water area — run descaling cycle
- If F08 returns — heating element needs professional testing
- Do not run hot wash programmes until repaired
F09 is a software fault in the washing machine's control system. The machine may display multiple flashing LEDs simultaneously, refuse all programme selections, or appear completely unresponsive. This can occur after a power surge corrupts the PCB firmware, or when the control board develops a hardware fault. A thorough hard reset is always worth trying. If F09 clears after the reset, install a surge protector. If it persists, a PCB replacement is usually required.
✅ What to Do
- Unplug from wall socket — not just power button
- Wait a full 5 minutes (longer than the standard 2-minute reset)
- Plug back in and press Power
- If F09 clears — install surge protector, monitor for recurrence
- If F09 returns — PCB replacement required, call engineer
F11 is a pump circuit fault — distinct from F05 which is a drain blockage. F11 means the electronic circuit controlling the drain pump has failed. Water remains in the drum. This is not something that a filter clean will resolve — the fault is in the electrical circuit driving the pump, which means either the pump's wiring, the pump motor itself, or the PCB pump control section has failed.
🔍 Causes
- Pump winding failed — open or short circuit
- Pump wiring harness damaged
- PCB pump relay or triac failed
- Pump capacitor failed (some models)
✅ Steps
- Drain water manually via emergency drain hose
- Hard reset — unplug 2 min, plug back in
- If F11 returns — pump or PCB repair needed
- Call Whirlpool service
⚙ Technician Testing
- Pump winding resistance check — open circuit means pump replacement
- Direct voltage to pump — confirm whether pump runs independently
- PCB pump output circuit — check relay and triac operation
F21 means the drain cycle is taking much longer than expected. Unlike F05 (no drain at all) or F11 (pump circuit failure), F21 means the machine is draining — just too slowly. The pump is working but something is restricting flow. Pump filter blockage and drain hose positioning are the first things to check. This is very often fixable at home.
🔍 Causes
- Pump filter partially blocked — reduced flow
- Drain hose partially kinked or raised too high
- Household drain partially blocked — slow flow
- Pump impeller partially obstructed
- Excess suds slowing drainage (Sud and F21 together)
✅ Fix Steps
- Clean pump filter — partial blockage is most common cause
- Check drain hose height and kinks
- Test household drain flow independently
- Check for excess suds (Sud code present?)
- Hard reset and retest
F22 is a door lock engagement failure — the machine is attempting to start but the door lock is not confirming engagement to the control board. This is slightly different from F06 — F22 typically appears at the very start of a cycle when the machine tries to lock the door, whereas F06 can also appear mid-cycle or when the door won't open afterwards. Follow the same checks: obstruction, firm closure, hard reset, then engineer if persistent.
✅ Fix Steps
- Open door, check seal for trapped items
- Close door firmly with both hands until click is felt
- Confirm machine is level — misalignment prevents door engagement
- Hard reset — unplug 2 min, plug back in
- Persist → door interlock replacement by technician
F23 is a more definitive thermistor failure than F03. Where F03 indicates a temperature sensing anomaly, F23 means the thermistor has failed completely — the control board is receiving no valid temperature data. The machine stops the cycle as a safety measure. An engineer needs to test and replace the thermistor.
✅ Steps
- Hard reset — unplug 2 min, plug back in
- If F23 clears — run cold wash, monitor for recurrence
- If F23 returns — thermistor replacement needed, call engineer
F29
F30
F33
These four codes represent internal system failures that go beyond straightforward component testing and require professional diagnosis:
🔍 What Each Code Means
- F28: Serial communication error — the main PCB and motor control board cannot communicate. Usually a wiring harness or PCB board failure.
- F29: Door unlock error — the door lock cannot release after the cycle. The bimetallic lock element or unlock solenoid has failed. Follow the C9/dLEr unlock procedure (unplug, hold door, power on) as a first step.
- F30: Dispenser system error — the detergent or fabric softener dispenser motor or mechanism has failed. Dispenser drawer jammed or actuator motor failed.
- F33: Pump drive system error — the pump motor speed or drive circuit is not performing correctly.
✅ For All F28/F29/F30/F33
- Hard reset first — unplug 2 min, plug back in, retest
- F29 specifically: unplug, wait 20 min, plug in — thermal lock may release
- If code returns after reset — call Whirlpool service engineer
drn on Whirlpool top load HE washers is the equivalent of F05 on front load models — the machine is not draining correctly. The exact same troubleshooting applies: check and clean the pump filter if your model has one, check the drain hose for kinks and correct positioning, and verify the household drain is clear. Follow all the steps in the F05 section above.
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